Roll back the clock to
1997. It was the year that DVD
players became commercially available for a mere $1000, Celine Dion won album
of the year, and SOHO opened its
doors in the Vinings Jubilee complex as a neighborhood gathering spot, a place
to go for a great meal and a good time.
Today, DVD players have changed to a Blu-Ray format, Mumford & Sons
won this years album of the year, and SOHO has remained true to form for the
past 16 years as the “Cheers of Vinings” where the staff and patrons are on
first name basis basking in the moment.
Named after the artsy SoHo District in New York City, owners Frank and
Susan Smith have brought that New York-like classy, hip flair to their highly
popular restaurant where newcomers are quickly treated as regulars. The
cornerstone of SOHO is its outstanding Pan Asian-Nouveau American menu that is
managed by the multi-talented Executive Chef Joe Ahn. As an equal to the food
is the instant gratification from SOHO’s welcoming hospitality, and if I didn’t
know better I would have thought its name was derived from Southern
Hospitality.
One of the noticeable features at SOHO is its display of
high quality local art that’s scattered throughout the restaurant, as well as
its outstanding wine program. Each
week an offering is assembled highlighting three distinctive wines from various
vinicultural regions or varietals creating a theme to explore as a flight or
individually with savory tapas designed to complement their unique characteristics. What a way to expand ones knowledge and
appreciation of wines that might otherwise be overlooked. In addition to the
wines of the weeks, the Smith’s have put together a “spot on” wine list where
value meets quality head-on. If
something other than wine is needed to soften the day’s edge, there’s an
assortment of titillating libations to choose from. The one cocktail that I found that can easily transport the
mind to some sunny beach is the Bahama Holiday- Malibu Banana Rum, Canton
Ginger liqueur, fresh coconut juice, lime and a pinch of cardamom- this is a
destination get-away in a glass.
When a dish is listed on the menu for 16 years, I guess you
consider it a house favorite. One
of these “don’t you dare remove it from the menu” is the Chicken Tortilla Soup;
yes a soup. No matter if you feel a bit sluggish from a cold or simply want
something warm and comforting, Chef Ahn’s recipe is packed full of vigor and
umami with chucks of shredded chicken in a rich homemade chicken stock that’s
loaded with crisp tortilla chips, sweet corn, spicy chili peppers, zesty
cilantro and tangy limes. If this
doesn’t liven up the palate then the General Joey’s Calamari surely will. This is a throwback to the days when
Chef Ahn worked in his family’s eatery, Fuji-Ya in Gettysburg, PA. Tender
morsels of squid are flash fired then tossed is an exhilarating ginger- soy
glaze with diced Serrano pepper, garlic, and scallions - yum. Equally as savory as the calamari is
the Wagyu Beef Carpaccio. The paper thin slices of eye of the round are
drizzled with a housemade creamy Dijon sauce that adds an enticing tingle to
this ultra tender melt in the mouth meat.
It’s topped with field greens, shaved asiago cheese, shallots and capers
that are fried, and a wedge of toasted Parmesan bread. This is a meat lover’s dream come true.
As with the starters, there are several time-honored entrees
that should not to be missed at least in this lifetime. One of these
masterfully prepared dishes is the Chilean Sea Bass that has been seared to
perfection that has a slight crisp coating that opens to pure lushness with its
moist buttery texture. The
lemongrass beurre blanc, ginger, and shallots gives this fish a thrilling taste
and is served over a mound of forbidden rice with a side of sautéed baby bok
choy. If your carnivore instincts need satisfying then either the Beef Short
Ribs or the Elk Tenderloin will do the trick. The boneless Painted Hills short ribs are slow-cooked for 6
hours in a burgundy based braising and served with horseradish mashed potatoes
and sautéed spinach. Whereas, the
grilled New Zealand Elk Tenderloin is an explosion of rich exotic flavors
without any gaminess and is dressed with a raspberry and Dijon marinade with a side
of sweet potato gratin and haricot verts.
These offerings re-define comfort, as they are absolutely stunning.
Leave a touch of space in the appetite to complete the
culinary tour of Chef Joey’s kitchen for the warm decadent Chocolate Bread
Pudding that’s drizzled with a duo of rich caramel sauces and scoop of
old-fashioned vanilla ice cream – it’s an instant ticket to sweet dreams. For over 16 years, SOHO has served
creative foods and lively libations, and is still the place to go when in
Vinings for a good time with friends or soon to be friends and who knows you
just might meet your next BFF there.
Enjoy!!!
LGTG FRIENDLY ****
FOOD *****
FOOD *****
PRICE *****
AMBIENCE *****
DRINKS ****
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