Thursday, November 4, 2010


When I wrote my first restaurant reviews two years ago it was The Shed at Glenwood Park, at that time it was attempting to discover its identity; the community of Glenwood Park was mostly vacant space as the economy was heading into the tank, but somehow time and perseverance can be quite magical. Now Glenwood Park is a bustling neighborhood with new condos being built, and owner Cindy Shera’s dream of creating a really hip restaurant/ bar where people can come to relax is a reality- it’s so happening. The concept that the Shed has become fills a niche in the ATL dining community that is too often lacking; it’s a place where one can simply order a few sliders, a beer and chill; or enjoy a classic memorable meal with friends or for that special occasion.

Reaching into her years of restaurant experience from managing Twist, Cindy knows what she wants including putting together a wine list that doesn’t cause one to pause, it is made up of affordable treats that are both food friendly and absolutely delicious. The sustainably farmed 2007 Amavi Syrah from Walla Walla is rich flavored with a bouquet of violets, ripe brambleberries, and a touch of earthiness. In addition to being wine savvy, Cindy creates jaw-dropping cocktails - the Spicy Tangerine Margarita made with Espolon Gold Tequila, tangerine puree, fresh squeeze lime juice, a splash of a housemade habañero simple syrup concoction, served in a citrus salt rimmed glass- so refreshing but with a “slap you in the face” kick…

Chef Lance Gummere (formerly of Shaun’s) is the genius in the kitchen; his talents are obvious. Stretching the palate experience by incorporating the freshest available ingredients with a twist that is only Lance’s. The Crystal Farm Butternut Squash Soup is pureed African squash with a touch of local wildflower honey cream, whipping cream and just a splash of housemade Tabasco pepper sauce- love that sneaky warm feeling it gives. The seared then braised Berkshire pork belly is the best I’ve had in this town. The tasty morsels of pork are simmered for 8 hours in a chicken stock with celery, carrots, onions, bay leaves, and rosemary that is reduced to glaze this tender succulent meat. It is served with a fried egg in a basket that sometimes come from Chef Lance’s hens when they are in the mood. The pan-fried chicken liver bacon bruschetta is absolutely stunning- the gaminess of the liver is rounded out but the smoky Benton’s bacon flavors and a zesty housemade mayonnaise; I was not a fan of chicken livers until I had these. When a palate cleanser is needed; the sweet watermelon ball salad with feta, mint, and a 25 year old balsamic does the trick – such pleasing delectable flavors.

The Sonoma Duck Breast marinated in a mixture of olive oil and Louisiana sugar cane, then grilled is moist and flavorful, and is served with perfectly cooked seasonal vegetables. My favorite of the larger plates is the Pork Dumplings. The pasta-like dough is filled with diced onion, oregano, and ground pork, topped with a thick red wine braising reduction, and served with shiitake mushrooms and a grainy mustard- don’t miss this comforting dish. Watch out for a goat or wild boar dumplings.

The Shed offers some outstanding recession buster deals that showcase Chef Lance’s abilities. Wednesdays are $3 slider nights. The fantastic Pork Schnitzel slider is a pan fried breaded cutlet that has a dab of housemade pear jam. Simplicity rules with the Fried Heirloom Tomato that’s served with a dollop of Sweet Grass Diary goat cheese. An alternative to a burger is the Chilled Roast Beef slider that’s has a tangy horseradish sauce and a housemade potato chip- nice crunch. For the adventurous, the Beef Tongue with Tabasco pepper sauce is reminiscent of a nicely prepared roast beef that’s got zip - great flavors that beckon another glass of Shiraz. The organic local fare takes center stage on Thursdays - Harvest Nights - you get four vegetables that are prepared like no other for $10. The shaved fennel salad is fennel at its best – the anise flavors are accented with lemon, sea salt, and olive oil. The Southern classic fried tomatoes are firm and juicy; and the candy-like sautéed butternut squash, pecans, and local honey is simply divine. But for us onion lovers - the onion tart is totally off the chart- a baked slice of Vidalia onion on a puff pastry with a hunk of goat cheese, it’s sweet, creamy, crispy, and oh so yummy.

This American Bistro in this upcoming section of ATL has become a “go-to” destination eatery. It has a bit of everything one wants in a restaurant in today’s market. Perfect to get with friends or to escape on that long overdue date night. The Shed is waiting for you again and again.

LGBT FRIENDLY ***** (Comfortable Setting)
FOOD ***** (High Quality/ Search Out Daily Specials)
PRICE ***** (Great Eats at a Fantastic Price)
AMBIENCE ***** (Neighborhood Home Feel)
DRINKS **** (Affordable Wine List/ Creative Cocktails)


Shed at Glenwood on Urbanspoon

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